Dispatch from Tokyo: A Retail Roadmap

TOKYO — Tokyo has long been my favourite retail destination on the planet. With the world’s most sophisticated consumers, a vast array of retail options specialised down to the most specific and minute genres imaginable, as well as an obsessive focus on product quality and service excellence, there’s nowhere else I’d rather shop.

The Japanese don’t do a great job of promoting Tokyo’s vibrant retail landscape, however. Seoul has taken the crown as Asia’s fashion and cultural capital thanks to Korea’s booming entertainment industry. To the average tourist, Tokyo might still be better known for its sakura season in the spring when cherry blossoms bathe the city in hues of pink. But there’s no doubt Tokyo is one of the most exciting cities in the world. And the weak yen has enticed 17.78 million tourists to Japan in the first half of this year, according to the Japan National Tourism Agency, up more than 1 million people versus the previous high in 2019. Everything — food, fashion, accommodation — is so much more affordable than London, Paris or New York.

So especially now, when prices elsewhere remain sky-high following the post-Covid inflationary surge, Tokyo is a prime shopping destination, especially for the Chinese. The relatively low pricing, combined with an efficient tax refund process and an endless variety of options, has attracted luxury bargain hunters from around the world as the yen hit multi-year lows against the US dollar, the euro, the South Korean won, the Australian dollar and the yuan.

The impact on fashion brands and retailers in Japan has been palpable. This week, LVMH reported that sales in Japan were up an astonishing 57 percent in the second quarter. This is particularly noteworthy given revenues for the world’s largest luxury group — and bellwether for the entire sector — fell by 14 percent in the rest of Asia, including China.

Japanese designers and executives I spoke to on the ground said their sales were also up about 30 percent versus last year, an unexpected but much welcome boon to their businesses. Though, for some brands, the low yen has also meant their input costs for manufacturing abroad have surged too.

This was my sixth visit to Tokyo in the last 15 years, and it really was better than ever. I had planned my trip before the recent devaluation of the yen, but the timing was really good as it was also the tail-end of the summer sale season, where even top brands were marked down by up to 40 percent.

I was keen to dive back into Tokyo’s rich retail scene. As things change so quickly here, it’s always helpful to get updates on what’s new and what’s closed (sayonara to two of my favourite stores from past visits, Pass The Baton and Roots & Branches) so thanks to all of you who shared your recommendations.

I received hundreds of responses to my request for ideas on Instagram.. If something I hadn’t heard of before got multiple mentions, I knew I had to check it out. I also talked to insiders on the ground to get their tips on what I must do and see this time around.

Several of you asked if I could create a summary of my top picks, and I’m more than happy to oblige. This is an opportunity to pay it forward and share what I learned — and what I loved.

Aoyama

This is the neighbourhood where I almost always begin my Tokyo retail adventures. The stretch along Aoyama Dori all the way along Aoyama Dori from Shibuya station to Minami-Aoyama station and the charming backstreets on both sides must be the most densely-packed, high-quality retail district anywhere in the world.

First and foremost, Aoyama is home to the flagship stores for all the top Japanese brands — Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Undercover by Jun Takahashi, Facetasm and Sacai by Chitose Abe. These are always my main focus in Japan as they are priced much better here, the selection is the most varied you will find anywhere, and the sizes run small, which is excellent for a pint-sized person like me!

Some of my favourite Western designers like Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Prada, Miu Miu and Thom Browne have also created really special, often architecturally unique spaces that are worth a look even if you’re not looking to buy. The Prada building designed by Herzog & de Meuron which opened in 2003 still stands out, while on the other end of the spectrum, the Thom Browne store is so hidden away you might miss it. The Gentle Monster flagship had the biggest queue outside and is clearly one of the most sought after brands in Tokyo, but I didn’t want to waste time lining up so never made it inside.

One of the best new multi-brand boutiques in Aoyama is The Tokyo in the Omotesando Hills shopping mall. The staff are very passionate and well-informed, making it a great place to find newer Japanese brands created by designers who have worked with the big guns. This time we discovered TAAKK, designed by Takuya Morikawa who used to work at Issey Miyake, and Irenisa, by the duo Yuji Abe and Yu Kobayashi, who was a pattern maker at Yohji Yamamoto.

There is also Super A Market, a good multi-brand store by retail juggernaut Tomorrowland; The Pool, an excellent concept store which was unfortunately closed for the summer holidays; and 16AOUT which carries a good selection of Maison Margiela and The Row.

Plan to spend at least a full day in Aoyama if you want to get even just a thin slice of everything on offer. It’s hard to accurately describe just how much there is to take in. Luckily, all of the shops I’ve mentioned are packed closely together, which makes it very convenient to explore by foot.

Ginza and Marunouchi

Once upon a time, Ginza was the undisputed retail centre of Tokyo, and while it is still home to scores of major flagship stores, department stores and boutiques, it has lost its pre-eminence as brands have opened further shops elsewhere.

For the fashion cognoscenti, Dover Street Market is the main reason to visit Ginza. With seven floors of amazingness and extremely helpful staff, this is a place you can discover that special piece no other stores took the risk to buy.

The other major fashion destination is Ginza Six, a sleek building which packs together stores by Maison Margiela, The Row and Celine, alongside Japanese stalwarts N.Hoolywood and Undercover. You could spend hours in here, but we popped in and out quickly as the selection available at the same stores in Aoyama is much better.

Marunouchi is a business and shopping district near the Imperial Palace. The area around Naka Dori is a relatively calm and peaceful place to shop versus the hustle and bustle of nearby Ginza. There is an outpost of The Tokyo here as well, but I found the selection and the service in Omotesando Hills to be much better.

The Land of Tomorrow store, a play on words for retail juggernaut Tomorrowland, is an upscale store with a nice selection of Dries Van Noten, Jil Sander and The Row. Caban (also part of the Tomorrowland group) also has a nice store here. They make these amazing comfy block colour knit hoodies. Last time I was here I bought a green one. It is still in such good condition after endless wears on planes around the world, that I bought two more in navy and lemon yellow. The quality is excellent at reasonable prices.

Nakameguro and Daikanyama

Nakameguro is by far my favourite part of Tokyo, known for its ultra-cool select shops like Arts & Science, Cover Chord (formerly Vendor) and 1LDK which are highly curated selections of fashion, homeware and design. These can feel hit or miss and depend on your own style and taste.

Over in neighbouring Daikanyama you will find the excellent Okura store which features indigo-dyed denim and t-shirts in endless variations by Blue Blue Japan. The helpful staff also recommended Hollywood Ranch Market which has great basics and t-shirts.

I also really like O, a series of three shops with great under-the-radar Japanese designers at contemporary price points. Both times I have visited I found really unique pieces from the designer Yohei Ohno.

There are also two excellent bookstores, Tsutaya and Cow Books, which are worth a visit.

Department Stores

Once upon a time, Japan was known for its towering department stores. These huge, multi-storey buildings with endless apparel options, shop-in-shops and excellent curation were always a must-see for me.

Isetan in Shinjuku sat at the top of the heap when it came to its fashion, but this time it felt like the personality and young designer offering had diminished in its quality and curation.

The other top men’s destination is Hankyu Men’s in Ginza. There were some interesting options on the top floors, but if you are pressed for time, I would give it a miss. There is so much more to see elsewhere.

Azabudai Hills

Azabudai Hills is a new, burgeoning residential district, touted by real estate developer Mori Building Company as a modern urban village, completed in 2023 and designed by Thomas Heatherwick Studio. The mixed retail and residential complex is home to new flagships by Hermès, Dior and Cartier; the Tokyo outpost of Pace Gallery designed by Sou Fujimoto; the new Janu Hotel by Aman; and possibly the nicest food market I have seen anywhere in the world. This is an interesting place to visit if you are keen on architecture and urban development. Most of the stores are connected underground to the efficient, labyrinthine Tokyo subway system.

Homeware

There is so much fashion to see in Tokyo, that the city’s incredible craft and design offering can sometimes get lost in the mix as you have to really seek it out. For more everyday items, go to Kappabashi, sometimes known as ‘Kitchen Town’, where you can pick up the best knives and ceramics to bring a little Japanese quality and style into your daily life.

There are also some very special curated shops with beautiful homeware. We loved Pejite, hidden away in the backstreets of Aoyama, as well as Spiral Market, a multi-storey building teeming with shops. Eatrip Soil, located in the same building as Chanel in Omotesando, had specialty oils and sauces from all over the world.

Vintage

Tokyo’s vintage scene is second to none. One of my favourite stores from previous trips, Pass The Baton, has closed, but Jantiques in Daikanyama is a must-see for anyone looking for interesting design references, while Amore and Qoo are known for designer handbags in excellent condition. There are tons of other places I did not visit, but the Shimokitazawa neighbourhood is known for its plethora of vintage options.

Jewellery

I had not explored the jewellery offerings in Tokyo before, but several people recommended we meet Yuta Ishihara, the designer behind Shihara, and we were not disappointed. He takes a geometric, highly functional approach to his jewellery designs, which are impeccably made.

For those interested in more of a jewellery experience, check out Solakzade in Shibuya. You can’t just show up here as it’s by appointment only. The achingly cool staff aim to please, bringing out vintage jewellery and eyewear from decades (and centuries) past.

A special thank you to Verbal and Yoon from Ambush, designer Tomo Koizumi, celebrity stylist Fukami Hasegawa, writer and editor Noaki Kotaka, Richard Christiansen of Flamingo Estate and his intrepid Tokyo-based friend Ruth Thomas, and Nike’s Tim Hamilton, all whom were all especially helpful in guiding me along this most recent Tokyo adventure. I also have to credit the amazing Superfuture Guides which are regularly updated with the latest developments in Tokyo’s retail scene and much more in-depth guides to everything you need to know to make the most of your time in Tokyo.

This Weekend on the BoF Podcast

Sport and fashion have always been a part of Stéphane Ashpool’s life: He was raised watching his artistic parents socialise with designers like Claude Montana in Paris, while simultaneously falling in love with basketball watching the LA Lakers on TV. He followed both of these passions into adulthood, eventually launching streetwear brand Pigalle in 2008 and going on to collaborate with brands like Nike.

“I have as much curiosity for couture as I have for sport kit,” said Ashpool. “I knew I wanted to kind of blend those things spontaneously. I had no clue what it was going to bring me but that’s why I started to put things together.”

This week on The BoF Podcast, Ashpool joined me to share his journey with clothing brand Pigalle and how his unconventional path into fashion led him to designing the French national team’s Olympic uniforms.

Wishing you all a great weekend!

Imran Amed, Founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief, The Business of Fashion

Here are my other top picks from our analysis on fashion, luxury and beauty:

1. Are Luxury Brands Still Worth It? Luxury’s results ‘superweek’ underscored just how far consumer demand has fallen. Macroeconomic gloom is part of the problem, but there may be deeper issues with big luxury’s value proposition.

2. Inside Fashion’s Biggest Olympics Ever. Long the marketing domain of sportswear giants, the 2024 Olympic games in Paris are seeing an influx of fashion advertisers who are getting creative in how they capitalise on one of the few remaining events with massive global impact.

3. How to Get Customers to Shop Online. Fashion e-commerce winners are using new personalisation techniques to boost sales, but doing so doesn’t necessarily require expensive software upgrades.

4. Tiffany’s Staff Exits Test LVMH’s Turnaround Playbook. Ambitious sales targets and lower commissions for some salespeople have led them to defect for competitors, taking some of their loyal clients with them.

5. Inside Turkey’s Powerful Fashion Factories. Turkish manufacturers like Kipas are harnessing vertical integration, innovation and speed-to-market to help Asos and other brands ‘nearshore’ their supply chains and diversify away from China.

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