This Week In Fashion

The Olympics are proving a perfect marriage of the sports and fashion industries. It’s the culmination of several factors that have turned sport into fashion’s most exciting new arena over the past two years.

Luxury’s results ‘superweek’ underscored just how far consumer demand has fallen. Macroeconomic gloom is part of the problem, but there may be deeper issues with big luxury’s value proposition.

Supreme’s adherence to its business model of drops and scarcity might now be constraining its growth rather than driving it. It might be the moment for the streetwear pioneer to give in and go fully mass-market.

With pressure mounting on CEO John Donahoe, the sportswear giant’s precise turnaround plan remains unclear. But the rehiring of Nike veteran Tom Peddie this week offered more clues on the brand’s direction.

A $2.65 billion merger of two of America’s largest department stores, with involvement from Amazon and Salesforce, is a bet that scale and technology can breathe new life into an ailing business model.

Signs of recovery at the American retailer have convinced some analysts that its stock may be undervalued. Others say it’s too soon to tell, but even the sceptics note improvements on product, merchandising and markdowns.

This week, Permira pulled Golden Goose’s IPO citing uncertain market conditions, while menswear collections in Milan and Paris continued to play it safe in a softening market.

An investigation into labour exploitation in fashion’s Italian supply chains has already entangled Armani and LVMH, accusing the companies of failing to adequately oversee their suppliers. Incoming EU regulation means such lapses in oversight could soon come with penalties of up to five percent of global revenue.

Following the departure of artistic director Virginie Viard, the French couture and beauty giant will need a new creative leader — or leaders — to bring fresh energy to its cross-category pyramid of products.

This week, the gemstone giant said it would exit the fast-growing lab-grown diamond sector to focus on marketing the “unique attributes” of natural stones. Stakes are high after sales plummeted in 2023, and as owner Anglo-American explores a sale or spin-off.

This week, The Vampire’s Wife announced its closure and Dion Lee called in administrators, only days after Mara Hoffman said it was shutting down and Roksanda narrowly escaped administration. Many more may follow.

After a decade of turnaround attempts, the British trenchcoat maker’s efforts to thrive as a top luxury player continue to falter. The brand needs more accessible prices and marketing — and quick.