The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
This is a bit of a bridge week for fashion month, with the tail end of New York and the start of London. In New York, Off-White has the potential to have a moment on Sunday; the brand is aiming to recalibrate its positioning and reconnect with its US fanbase after a period of poor performance. Coach’s collection will be presented on Tuesday on the High Line, though the real show may be in federal court in lower Manhattan, where parent company Tapestry will face off against the Federal Trade Commission, which is suing to block the former’s acquisition of Michael Kors owner Capri.
In London, the big story is Burberry’s first show under chief executive Joshua Schulman, but we’ll save that for next week’s newsletter. Otherwise the focus will be on the city’s many promising young designers. This season’s highlights include Olly Shinder, showing menswear as part of Fashion East on Friday, Harri, of Sam Smith inflatable jumpsuit fame, on Saturday, plus the return of Nensi Dojaka, also on Saturday. On Sept. 15, Joanna Parv shows, as does Paolo Carzana, a finalist for the LVMH Prize. (He’ll know by then if he won, as the announcement is this coming Tuesday; another finalist, Standing Ground, also shows in London, on Saturday).
Off the runway, Nike holds its shareholder meeting on Sept. 10. These are usually pretty rote affairs; shareholders have put up for vote resolutions addressing human rights issues in the company’s supply chain, as well one demanding it revamp its sustainability strategy. Such resolutions rarely succeed (and never have at Nike). This year some have the backing of a Norwegian sovereign wealth fund that is Nike’s ninth-biggest shareholder, as well as two leading proxy advisory firms.
Inditex reports first-half results on Wednesday. Shares have been hitting record highs all year, mostly thanks to Zara’s hot streak. The retailer has cemented its status in consumers’ minds as a fashion, rather than merely fast-fashion, destination, with lush campaign imagery and capsules with photographer Steven Meisel and former Saint Laurent and Zegna designer Stefano Pilati. There’s no such thing as enjoying one’s success in this business, however. H&M is in the midst of rolling out a marketing and merchandising effort meant to bring some buzz back to the retailer. Shein is pursuing a London initial public offering that would add to its already substantial war chest. Temu sales continue to rocket higher, and Amazon and Walmart are making moves to up their fashion game. Inditex has effectively used the last few years to build up a commanding lead in the sector, both in terms of sales (which are now nearly double H&M’s), and premium branding that lower-cost rivals will struggle to match.
The Week Ahead wants to hear from you! Send tips, suggestions, complaints and compliments to brian.baskin@businessoffashion.com.
